A wave
can be described as a disturbance that travels
through a medium from one location to another
location. A
water wave is therefore, a
ridge or swell on the surface of a body of water.
The winds cause waves on the surface of the ocean and on lakes. The wind
transfers some of its energy to the water, through friction between the air
molecules and the water molecules. Waves of water do not move horizontally,
they only move up and down. Surfer thus ride the wave either using a board or
with their bodies. However, where the wave is surfed without a board is
very common and is considered by some to be the purest form of surfing.
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